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Entries about bucharest

Bucharest

Bucharest


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Bucharest was incredibly hot and humid, almost at Guayaquil levels, but very interesting.

First of all I had fun exploring the old town, passing through University Square on the way.

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There was no free breakfast at the hostel, so I visited a bakery instead and ate the result (a small savoury pastry sprinkled with poppy seeds and filled with bacon and melted cheese) next to a small statue of Romulus and Remus being fed by the wolf.

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Then I came across the Old Princely Court, some remains of a palace used and extended by Vlad the Impaler, who as it happens was born in Sighisoara, my next destination after Bucharest.

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First of all I went underground into the brick cellars - it was interesting, with the bonus of being deliciously cool - and then I looked round the rest.

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This included the accompanying church - originally built in 1559, but much-restored since then. The Romanian Orthodox Church seems to differ from the Bulgarian in that the candle-stands are actually boxes and are outside in a separate area. I bought and lit a candle for Dad, and after I'd done so a woman came up to me, pressed two small packets of biscuits and two boiled sweets into my hands, said something in Romanian and walked away! She did the same with another woman, who hadn't lit any candles yet.

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The old town also contained the old and beautiful Stavropoleos Church. It was covered in frescoes on the inside and I had fun finding out the names of the saints in them via transliteration. It seems that Romanian used to use the Cyrillic alphabet.

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I also loved its pretty, peaceful little courtyard, where I stopped to sit down and have a cold drink.

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The old town was definitely well worth looking round.

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Last of all I visited the National History Museum, which was great. Special mention to the anthropomorphic pottery, the stuffed wild boar, the exquisite metalwork from 5th - 3rd century BC (helmets, cow head-shaped drinking horn, diadem of gold leaves and fish-shaped silver harness appliques) and the 14th - 16th century weapons.

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After a rest back at the hostel, during which I had two more savoury pastries for a late lunch, followed the Ashes cricket live updates for a while and caught Kate online for a bit, I headed back out. My destination was the cemetery where Nicolae and Elena Ceaușescu are buried, but on the way I stopped for a bit outside the infamous Palace of the Parliament. It was built on the orders of Ceaușescu and is the second largest building in the world (the Pentagon is the largest). A large part of the original city centre was wiped out to accommodate it.

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I found the cemetery OK, but it took much longer than I expected to walk there, so by the time I arrived at was nearly 19.30; it was supposed to close at 20.00. After spending about twenty minutes unsuccessfully looking for their graves, I had to give up and walk all the way back again. Although I knew which row and number their graves were, the numbers of the rows didn't seem to follow any particular order, and lots of the rows didn't have any number at all. It was quite maze-like and to be honest looking for the right graves was a bit like looking for a needle in a haystack! I'm still glad I went though, because it was interesting to see what a Romanian cemetery is like. Nearly all of the gravestones were shaped like crosses and were made of very white stone; there were some small mausoleums as well. I noticed lots of inlaid circular photos or pictures of the dead, like on the stones in the courtyards of the monasteries I've seen in Bulgaria. Outside the cemetery entrance there were lots of flower and coffin sellers with their wares on display at the side of the pavement.

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Instead of going straight back to the hostel, I made a diversion to an area of town I hadn't been to before, in order to have dinner at a restaurant I'd been recommended. I regretted it before I even got there, because I was so knackered (it was quite a long diversion) and as soon as I got there and saw a different restaurant there, I regretted it even more. It looked a bit posh and I was in not the cleanest of clothes and was literally dripping with sweat. Normally I would have just gone in anyway, but I was practically on my last legs by now and decided on the spur of the moment just to go in the nearest supermarket instead. I bought a pasta salad and a custard-like chocolate pudding, plus drinks, and tottered home. I knew that if I sat down for dinner at the restaurant, I wouldn't be able to get up again!

Posted by 3Traveller 08:57 Archived in Romania Tagged art palace cemetery museum hostel romania dad bucharest orthodox_church romanian_cuisine extreme_weather Comments (0)

Arrival in Romania

Train journey and Bucharest


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I'm sitting up in bed in my 4-bed dorm as I type this, fresh from an extremely welcome shower and feeling absolutely knackered. There's only one other person in the dorm and they're not actually here at the moment, so it's just me. I'm too tired to go back outside now, so I'm going to get an early night and (hopefully) plenty of sleep before a busy day tomorrow looking round Bucharest.

Even after the train started moving, it remained very hot and sticky in the cabin, so in order to cool down I had to move into the corridor and stand directly next to the window. After a couple of hours I had used up most of my water and was craving a cold drink. As luck would have it, soon after that we stopped at a tiny place where there was no platform. We stopped for a while and I noticed a pump at the side of the track next to a road. Water was streaming out of it. One or two other people had clearly noticed it too, because they asked the guard if they could run over to it and fill up their water bottles... we ran over the track as quickly as possible. The water looked crystal clear so I took the chance on it being OK to drink.

There was no more drama on the rest of the journey. As well as reading my book, I looked out of the window a lot. I loved all the fields of sunflowers, both in Bulgaria and Romania.

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At Ruse, the last Bulgarian town before the Danube border crossing, border police came on board and checked passports; then in Giurgiu (the first Romanian town on the other side of the river) Romanian border police did the same. They stamped some people's passports, but not mine. There were no baggage checks.

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On arrival at Gara de Nord (the north, main train station) in Bucharest I couldn't find my way to the hostel, so I tried to get a taxi - but the driver tried to not use the meter, offering to take me to the hostel for 20 lei instead. I knew for a fact that this was wildly overpriced, so I refused to get in. I gave the hostel a ring instead and they offered to pick me up, so I accepted. Turns out a taxi should only have been about 5 lei, and it's illegal in Romania for taxis not to use the meter, so I was glad I hadn't been taken in.

I haven't seen much of the city so far of course but two things I've noticed so far that are different, apart from the language and currency of course, are firstly the sight of traffic police actually directing traffic, and secondly people walking past cars at traffic lights trying to sell trinkets.

Off to sleep now - lots of sightseeing to do tomorrow!

Posted by 3Traveller 00:15 Archived in Romania Tagged trains hostel romania bulgaria bucharest Comments (0)

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